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Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 10:26
ATV We ripped on the trails, the best part of the entire ride was the laughing. It was non-stop. If you’ve ever spent serious time riding two-up in a side-by-side, then you know exactly what I am talking about. It’s the social thing that makes a day’s ride with a good buddy even better. At times I was feeling a little nervous though; with Bourgeois at the wheel I felt like I was on a roller coaster. Would I do this again? Yes! We had a dynamite time and the stories we took away with us were priceless. We’ve had a blast, and a lot of laughs putting this issue of ATV World together, and we hope you feel that this issue is one of our best issues yet! Earlier this spring, Bourgeois and I made our way to Arizona to rip on the new Polaris RZR XP 900, which is featured on the cover of this issue. Pat had us dodging cacti, lizards, and other things one would find in the Arizona desert. It was an experience to say the least, where we rode twoup for a few days… a ride I wouldn’t have thought either of us would sign up for, but it was great. At times there was screaming, ranting and maybe even a little raving! It was a true experience, and was more entertaining than I would have imagined. While He was “Gooning” his way into the new 450 Yamahas. He has also found the time during his daily adventures to build a special Grizzly. Chris completed his RZR 4 build, and he didn’t take a shortcut, that’s for sure. Randy gets us started with a trip to “When Things were not so Standard.” Imagine your ATV/UTV not having an electric start! We’ve also added a few more tidbits which will resurface in future issues such as; Cruisin’, YouTube, How-To’s and Boggin’ the Web. Nelson has also added a new column focused around his mechanical skills. I hope you enjoy the new edition as much as we did. So until next time; like you, we honestly can’t wait for our next ride! I’ll be out in the garage removing the tracks and putting on the Mudders – Get Dirty!


Author: admin on 4-07-2013, 11:21
MCR YAMAHA 660 52 GRIZZLY IN ITS DAY, THE YAMAHA GRIZZLY 660 WAS A CROWD FAVORITE AMONG SPORT UTILITY ENTHUSIASTS. IT WAS AN ALL-AROUND WORKHORSE THAT WAS SUPER RELIABLE, COMFORTABLE ENOUGH TO RIDE FOR HOURS, HANDLED DECENTLY AND COULD OUTRUN MOST OF THE COMPETITION. Unfortunately for those loyal 660 Grizzly owners out there, that day ended in 2007. The 660 Grizzly’s dominance in the market was overstepped with the release of Yamaha’s fuel injected, 700 grizzly with power steering. Not only did Yamaha release a better handling Grizzly with more power; the rest of the OEM’s were busy dropping even bigger, and more high tech 4X4 ATV’s on the market as quickly as they could produce them. The Yamaha 660 Grizzly utilized a semi lowtech 660cc engine that was derived from the Yamaha Raptor sport quad, and goes even further back to being used in an overseas model; the Yamaha dual-sport motorcycle in the early 90’s. While this engine has been around for quite a few years now, its five valve head was almost revolutionary in its day, and very capable of producing a pretty decent power curve. So what do you do if you already have and love your 660 Grizz, but really want to be on par with the newer, updated machines? This was the question I was discussing with MCR Racing’s Mike Cafro a few months back. After a few cold ones and a few snide remarks, Mike claimed that he was going to update his “old” Grizz to better than new, and that it would be able to hang with any of the new machines. Mike has been building amazing BAJA and WORCS championship winning sport quads for many years. In typical racer style, just as our deadline was approaching, Mike came through with this completely updated, super functional Grizzly. Mike built this machine to out-handle the competition and here is how it went down. The first thing the older Grizzly needed was to handle better than the new updated, power steering equipped models. In order to do that, Mike leaned on our good friend Doug Roll of Roll Design ATV Suspension for a few custom parts. Roll Design built a custom, super strong 4130 steering stem, complete with Roll’s ultratrick 17-4 cast stainless upper and black anodized billet aluminum anti-vibe bar mounts. This trick stem accommodates the oversized, fatigue-reducing Fasst Company Flexx handlebar system and is way stouter than the usual generic, bigbar adapter method of mounting them. The Flexx bar system actually flexes in the plane of the suspension, like shocks in your handlebars. This Flexx bar relieves an amazing amount of vibration as well as shock from your forearms and shoulders, allowing the rider to ride longer and faster. Roll also built some incredible one-off, cast stainless foot pegs that are similar to sets of their sport pegs, complete with kick-ups and all. To further reduce shock and fatigue, and compete with the power steering equipped newer units, Cafro called on Precision-RP for the very best steering damper that money can buy. The Precision Stabilizer works amazing on the Grizzly. This is most likely because it is designed for an ATV, and not a motorcycle retrofit like most of the other steering dampers on the market. The Precision Damper absorbs bone jarring impacts from trail obstacles such as rocks, tree roots, and ruts like you can’t even believe. Today’s current power steering systems also do a great job of limiting negative feedback to the handlebar, but the bottom line is; if you ride your non power steering equipped utility quad aggressively, a steering stabilizer will most likely benefit you more than any other product. Mike then called on his longtime sponsor, Elka Suspension for a set of fully adjustable Elite Series shocks to make this big utility quad handle the rough stuff better than most sport quads. Elite shocks are valved specifically for the type of riding that Mike will be putting the Grizzly through, yet the multitude of available adjustments including high and low speed compression, rebound, preload and ride height allow for simple adjustments that will perform in any condition. Mike rides his Grizz purely in CA, so it sees a lot more desert and mountainous conditions than it will ever see of mud, and this made his tire choice much easier. The Maxxis 4 Speed tires are a very tough, yet lightweight utility tire that uses their proven Razr sport quad tread pattern to provide excellent traction in drier terrain; whether it be hard packed trails or ripping up a sand wash. This radial tire provides reduced steering effort and excellent bump absorption. These tires were mounted on DWT’s new Sector three piece modular beadlock wheel. The Sector is a stylish, yet super strong heat treated wheel that is available in 12” or 14”, with a number of possible offsets to provide optimum handling in any situation. Definitely the trickiest thing about Mike’s tire set up is that he will never be stranded with a flat. Mike used the same BAJA and WORCS proven, run flat technology that has helped him win time and time again, south of the border. Tireballs were installed at all 4 corners. This system fills your tires with multiple individual air bladders, or cells instead of just air. When a flat is acquired, it takes out one of 15 tire balls within the tire, and instead of riding home on a rim; you only lose the equivalent of about 7% of your air pressure. While this may seem a little extreme for your average utility quad; if you ride your vehicle way out into the back country, it’s nice to know that you will have the tires left to ride it back after you’re done. Once the 660 was handling as good as, or maybe better than the competition, the next thing it needed to be competitive was a boost in the horsepower department. For any of the 660 Yamahas, whether it is the Grizzly, Rhino or a Raptor, a 686 big bore kit is the most cost effective and reliable way to boost horsepower. The L.A. Sleeve 686 kit consists of a 102mm LAPC box forged 11:1 piston, L.A. Sleeve gasket kit and a bore job. The 686cc kit is very simple yet effective, bumping overall HP as well as a big improvement off the bottom end. Coupling the 686 kit with a free flowing Swamp Series HMF exhaust system and a high flowing, serviceable K&N air filter turns the 660 Grizzly into a whole new animal. The modified Grizzly will lift the front end at will and accelerates with authority. Extra horsepower is especially noticeable when climbing hills on the now slightly heavier machine. The stock Grizzly protection was upgraded with a very solid Warn bumper and a complete set of HD Aluminum skid plates from Ricochet Offroad to protect the undercarriage. I did not witness the installation, but Cafro specifically mentioned that they mounted to the Grizzly like a dream. It’s not very often that we receive an extensive set of heavy duty skid plates like these that are not a complete nightmare to install. The seven year old, wimpy stock seat cover was replaced with a hand sewn, super durable Quadtech ATV one, just like MCR uses on their pro level race bikes. While the project was definitely centered around performance and handling, Mike being a lover of the outdoors, plans on taking his Grizzly on deep back country trips to fish and camp. To provide the most useable storage for accessories, OGIO ATV rack bags were installed front and rear. The insulated, waterproof bags will hold just about anything, with over 4400 cubic inches of capacity in the rear and 2500 in the front. Sometimes there is just a little too much riding to be done, in order to finish before the sun goes down. This is why Ricky Stator HID replacement lights are used. These replacement bulbs and lightweight ballasts mount in minutes and really throw out the light. The HID upgrade puts out three times the light, all while drawing less wattage than the stock set up, leaving plenty of power for the Warn RT2500 winch. The RT2500 winch is a very reliable winch with plenty of pulling power for many odd jobs, or even the next time Mike might miss a turn and needs to winch himself back up a cliff or out of a river. The Warn RT2500 even has a patent-pending brake system to hold the machine on a steep incline. Did he succeed? I would have to say yes. The new Grizzly is as fast as most of the big bore, newer machines. It handles great when driven aggressively or just cruising, and should still prove to be very reliable. On one side of the coin, buying everything to replicate the MCR Grizzly would cost much more than a new machine. On the other hand, a custom ATV is truly like a piece of art, and tough to place a value on. Any of these upgrades will help you improve the performance and ride-ability of your machine. It’s up to you as to just how far you need to go to be content.

all-terrain vehicle

Author: admin on 2-07-2013, 19:15
A quad is an all-terrain vehicle or ATV like "Off-road vehicle" is a small motor vehicle for one to three persons with four wheels or less with four crawlers, often with tires terrain vehicle. In USA sports and recreational vehicles are often referred to as a quad, work vehicles for off-road use, such as mountain rescue vehicles with four-wheel drive rather than ATV.


Author: admin on 2-07-2013, 11:28
1) Asylum Extreme Fender Extenders 2) Pro Armor Doors 3) AMR Racing Door Graphics Kit 4) Warn HID Lights So if you've been following our buildup, you’ve noticed that we’ve taken a stock RZR 4 to a pretty awesome and much more capable Polaris RZR 4, with products we believe are the best in the business. If you think we rave too much on the products we review, keep in mind that we do a lot of research ahead of time to pick the best products around, rather than choose just any off-the-shelf product. Our goal is to build the ultimate RZR 4, not an average one. But we also want to do it with practical and functional items first, and appearance items second. If we can make it look great with only a little bit invested, we believe it’s well worth it. And in this issue, we’ve done just that, while making our RZR 4 much more functional at the same time. Tostart, we installed the Asylum Hardware Extreme Fender Extenders. The reason we installed these flares is that back east, things get a tad muddy. After a full day’s ride, you can be completely covered in mud, even when you’re trying to avoid it. So, needless to say, the extra width that these Asylum fender flares provide will help to keep the rider and machine cleaner, not to mention look pretty cool too. So, to begin, Asylum’s instructions are pretty easy to follow, and the product appeared to be very well constructed, with a smooth finish inside the flare and a textured outside finish. They finished off the outer edges with a c-channel gasket to give it that finished look. So let’s jump into the install. FRONT FENDER EXTENDERS First, remove the bottom two stock fender flare screws (A) facing the tire. Next, put the fender extender in place, aligning the two lower holes to the stock screw locations you just removed. Reinsert the two screws you just removed, but don’t tighten them yet. Next, loosen the existing flare’s front-most screw (1) while turning the inner fender speed nut to line up with the notch (1) in front of the new extenders. Starting at the hole toward the front of the vehicle, push the new extender upward on the inner side of the body, (B1) and pre-drill a 1/8” hole. Using the provided fasteners, insert one screw into the hole, without the speed nut on the back side for now. Complete these steps for B3 and B4, making sure the tabs are located to the inside of the stock plastics. From here, instead of just screwing into the plastic, which is an option, we removed the fenders so we could use the provided speed nuts for a more secure mounting. Either way apparently works fine, but we opted for the slightly longer installation. Once everything is pre-drilled, pull away the stock flares from the body and install the speed nuts in all the locations. From here, just tighten everything up and you’re done with the first front fender. Repeat for the opposite side. As you can see from the pictures from the top, they definitely provide full coverage, hopefully deflecting all the junk that gets kicked up. REAR FENDER EXTENDERS First, remove the bottom two stock fender flare screws (A) facing the tire. Repeating the same process you completed in the front, place the fender extender in place, loosely securing the two screws back in the stock location. By pressing upward near B3, clamp the fender to the stock plastics with the inside lip to the inside edge of the stock plastics. Next, pre-drill the fender using the marker holes in the extender with a 1/8” bit, starting with B1 up to B5. After drilling each hole, we removed the stock fender flare, so we could install the speed nuts on the back side for a more secure installation. Last, make sure the tab on the extenders is inside the stock plastics, then drill the hole and tighten it up. Repeat the same steps for the other side. ASYLUM HARDWARE FENDER EXTENDER REVIEW In regards to the installation difficulty and time required to do so, it’s a very simple and quick install. The fit and finish of the product is top notch, and they look really sharp to boot. The bends they incorporate into each of the flares not only are functional, but also follow the stock lines of the RZR, resulting in a professional, factory look. Out on the trails is where they really shine. The day before we headed out, it rained for two days straight. In addition, it was also the coldest day we had in a long time at sub-30 degrees, so we were wondering how well the plastic would hold up if brushed up against the rocks. So we headed up to Windrock OHV area to ride a couple of our favorite trails, both of which are very difficult to extreme, according to the maps. The trails were super muddy, slick, and had running water flowing down the centers, so we knew we had our challenges set out for us on this ride. However, for testing these flares, the conditions were perfect. Right off the bat, on off-camber, rutted out trails, you’re going to notice the extra width of the flares because you’re going to be worrying about ripping them off. We worried about this the first time we weren’t able to continue sticking to the high side of the rut and quickly slid down into the ditch, sliding on the flare the entire time. We immediately checked the flares, certain that they had ripped clean off, but to our surprise, they were still in perfect condition. Throughout the day, we bumped, scraped, and beat on the flares with no problems with them ripping off, cracking, or breaking. But in an attempt to climb an off-camber ditch, and not paying attention to the downhill side, we slid off our footing, straight into a sharp rock, which finally did put a slight crack in the front fender. To us, this was an extremely hard hit of nearly the entire vehicle weight sliding into a sharp rock, just in the perfect spot. So, although it did crack slightly, it could easily be super-glued to maintain its shape. The best part about the flares though, is that you no longer get covered in mud during your ride. We blasted through mud puddles faster than normal, just to see if we could get wet, and the only thing they don’t protect you from is water over the hood. Otherwise, these Fender Extenders work perfectly for keeping the occupants dry inside the cab of the RZR 4, not to mention keeping the bed clean as well. It’s pretty annoying to be out riding with all your high dollar camera gear in the bed, to have it completely covered in mud each time you go to grab some pictures. With these extenders in place, all our gear was clean and easily accessible. Overall, we’re very impressed with the Asylum Hardware Extreme Fender Extenders. After returning back home and washing off the RZR 4, we thought it might be interesting to add a new product to the Asylum line that would be a “high clearance” model. After discussing this with Asylum, they’re going to produce a third product for those that like to lay their UTV’s in ditches on their sides a lot, like us. Essentially, we looked at the pattern of the mud after our ride, on the inside of the fenders, and thought if it was trimmed up about halfway up from the bottom, you’d lose very little effective coverage, but have plenty of clearance to keep the rocks out of them. So, hopefully in the near future you’ll see a narrow, extreme, and high clearance model available from Asylum to fit whatever riding style you have. Outside of that, we’d highly recommend these Asylum Extreme Fender Extenders. PRO ARMOR DOORS One of the other items we wanted to install on the RZR 4 was a good set of doors, for a few different reasons. First and foremost, in our opinion the Pro Armor doors are the best looking doors on the market for the RZR 4. And we already confirmed that looks and appearance are number one, right? Okay, so although it’s important, it’s might not be the number one reason we chose these doors. The main reason we chose these doors is because AMR Racing has an awesome looking graphics kit that matches the stock colors and design perfectly, making the overall look, amazing. All right then; we cheated and selected these doors purely on looks! Well, in all seriousness, those were just side benefits to the functionality of these Pro Armor doors. The number one reason, in our opinion, to have good quality doors on your RZR 4 should be safety, and these doors definitely deliver. They’re constructed entirely out of aluminum tubing and aluminum skins, which produces a strong, yet lightweight door. The number two reason we chose these doors is that they provide a wider passenger compartment by flaring outward, freeing up space near your arms and knees. From there, if keeping the interior of your RZR 4 clean is something you’d enjoy, these doors help to prevent mud, dirt and debris from entering as well. Last but not least, they have vents in the top portion of the doors to keep the airflow moving throughout the cab. Otherwise, adding enclosed doors can increase the temperatures inside the cab. So let’s jump into the install of the Pro Armor doors. DOOR PREPARATION To begin, the parts included for the install can appear a little daunting, but the install is actually quite easy. In fact, there’s no drilling into your RZR 4 required, which was surprising to us. The only thing I’d say that would have been nice to have is color pictures to accent the instructions, because the black and white ones provided were basically black, and useless for the install. But luckily, the text portions of their instructions were relatively easy to follow. The first step is to remove all the seats from the RZR 4, along with all pieces of the side nets. At the A-Pillar, (forward, lowest tube of the roll cage) remove the (2) factory nuts and bolts that attach the factory roll cage to the vehicle’s frame. Repeat this for the other side as well. Under the front seat, remove and retain the bolt that attaches the vehicle’s floor plastics to the seat mount bar. Repeat this for the other side as well. At the B-Pillar, (vertical roll cage bar next to driver’s seat) remove and retain the nut and bolt that attaches the seatbelt assembly to the welded upper B-pillar mounting plate. Repeat this for the other side as well. Next, remove the forward nut and bolt from the C-pillar (vertical roll cage bar next to the rear seats) mount of the vehicle’s roll cage. Retain the nut and discard the bolt, and repeat for the other side. DOOR INSTALLATION Position the right front door frame in place so that it’s A-pillar and under seat mounts are aligned to the vehicle’s A-pillar and under seat mounting points (These are the two bolts at the bottom of the roll cage and the bolt you removed under the front seat). Loosely install (2) 3/8-16 x 1.75” hex bolts and 3/8-16 nuts at the Apillar mounting points. Next, remove the roll cage bar that goes from the middle of the C-pillar to the bottom of the B-pillar. This was one instance in the instructions, because of the lack of good pictures, where we weren’t sure if this was correct or not. Although removing the roll cage tube allows for easier entry and exit by the rear passengers, I’m sure it’s not quite as strong now. But we removed this bar, because otherwise, we couldn’t figure any other way to get the L-shaped bracket to work. So we inserted the L-Shaped bracket from the top, with the short side bent towards to the rear of the RZR 4, and the nut protrusion facing forward in the B-pillar. This will be the connection point for the front right door assembly’s lower B-pillar mount and the rear right door assembly’s lower B-pillar mount. Next, position the front and rear right door assemblies so that the front sleeve tube of the rear door assembly inserts into the lower rear tube section of the front door assembly. Adjust the (2) door assemblies so that their lower B-pillar mounts are aligned with one another. Align the front door’s upper B-pillar mount to the upper B-Pillar mounting point. Loosely secure the mounting point by re-attaching the seatbelt assembly and re-installing the retained hardware from before, along with a (1) #17 washer on the front side of the mount. Next, position the #1 L-bracket from earlier, so that it is aligned to the lower B-pillar mounting brackets of the front and rear door assemblies. Loosely install (1) M6 x 25mm bolt through the (2) lower B-pillar brackets, through the Bpillar into the L-shaped bracket. Next, position the rear door assembly’s C-pillar mount over the C-pillar mounting point of the vehicle’s roll cage. Loosely install (1) retained factory nut and (1) retained factory bolt, (from A-pillar) along with (1) 3/8 washer from the hardware kit at the C-pillar mounting point. One thing to note at this point is that each frame and vehicle is slightly different, tolerance wise. The instructions from Pro Armor recommended putting the vehicle on blocks to relieve any unnecessary binding or flex. But in our opinion, doing it as it sits on level ground is likely to reduce any binding once everything is installed. We’re not sure which way is better, but that’s just how we did it. Keep in mind though, that these frames definitely flex considerably, so keeping these doors shutting and lining up perfectly down the road, probably isn’t very likely regardless. At least there’s adjustment available if they get out of whack. The biggest factor though, is keeping them shut. A lot of inferior doors on the market fly open when the frames flex, which obviously, is not good. Next, it’s time to install the latches and drill the holes for the plungers in the optimal locations. Loosely thread in (1) #11 spring plunger into the front door’s latch tab. Fasten the plunger by loosely installing (1) jam nut as shown. Repeat the same procedure for the rear door. The plungers will need to be adjusted so that the doors are free to swing open and closed with the plunger handle pulled back. Keep in mind that you want the plunger to insert as far as possible into the frames, but not so close that the threaded portion hits the frame when the vehicle’s frame flexes. A hole needs to be drilled in the A-pillar and B-pillar’s mounting brackets. So using a 1/2 ” drill bit, we drilled the holes parallel to the latch pins. Next, we applied super glue to the nylon sleeves and inserted them into the (2) drilled holes. And finally, to complete the right side, using the supplied nuts, bolts, and washers, install the door skins with a washer under the bolt head and the locking nuts. Repeat the same process for the left side. Note: We installed the AMR Graphics kit to the door skins before installing them on the vehicle. PRO ARMOR DOORS REVIEW In regards to the installation difficulty and time required to do so, it’s a very simple install, but because of the many parts involved, it does take a decent amount of time. With two people installing a set for the first time, expect to spend roughly a half-day to install them. The fit and finish of the product is top notch, and they look really sharp; especially with the AMR graphics kit installed. One thing we did is have them powder coated instead of having the raw aluminum look. So we powder coated the tubing in a black textured finish, and the door skins in a smooth finish in the same color blue as the seats. In the end, they looked awesome. The first thing you’re going to notice is that getting in and out of the RZR in the front or the back is definitely easier now with the doors over the factory side nets. The suicide opening setup makes it easy to get in and out and close the doors without having to reach up and behind you to latch the side nets. Once seated in the RZR 4, you’ll immediately notice that you feel like you have more room and less clutter. The reason for this is the way Pro Armor angles the doors outward from the A-pillar, then back slightly towards the Bpillar. This gives large guys like me, plenty of knee, hip, shoulder, and arm room. In addition, the added benefit is you have a great place to rest your arm now as well. The only thing we’d like to see is rubber or plastic bolt covers to prevent your knee from getting gouged in the event that you stop abruptly. We didn’t encounter this, but we think from a safety standpoint, maybe the five bolts closest to your knee area is all that would be needed; just to be safe. Out on the trails, we wish we had been able to test these doors without the addition of the new Asylum flares installed at the same time. But it’s our conclusion that with the doors and the flares, you basically stay clean during the entire ride. We can only speculate that the doors would obviously help in the absence of the flares as well, but would probably still get a little bit dirty from any dirt or mud that flies up and over the doors. Given that the temperatures were below freezing during our ride, I’d say it was very nice to have some of the wind blocked by the doors. It will be interesting to see how they do in the dead of summer, and whether we notice a dramatic difference in the in-cab temperatures. In the end, we got back to the truck clean and the doors worked flawlessly. The doors that we drilled the holes for that were tight originally, were now perfect. And the driver’s side door that was perfect originally, was now slightly off, all due to the frame flexing and the doors settling into place. Needless to say, this is to be expected, and we fixed the driver’s side door with a simple adjustment of the doorframes. Overall, we’d highly recommend the Pro Armor doors for the RZR 4 for the ultimate in quality, function, and appearance. AMR RACING GRAPHICS KIT Having used AMR Racing’s products before, we were glad to hear they had already produced a great looking graphics kit for the Pro Armor RZR 4 doors that matched the existing vehicle’s graphics. To install them using two people, one person holds up one end and the other person slowly adheres the graphics to the door skins. We tried the first one with some soapy water, and to our surprise it wasn’t needed to get everything to line up easily. So, for the remaining 3 panels, we installed them without it, because they’re relatively small surfaces with only a slight bend in each of them. Before installing them, it’s important to remove any and all dirt or fingerprints, with isopropyl alcohol. From there, we started at the tops of the door panels, so we knew the holes would be lined up well. Essentially, that’s it. It’s really that simple. We didn’t have to use a blow dryer or let them hang out in the sun for hours to remove any bubbles; they came out perfectly. Secondly, AMR includes graphics for the rearmost section and the B-pillar section of the doors as well. So we wiped them down with the alcohol, and applied those as well. We were slightly worried that the textured finish of the powder coating would prevent them from sticking well, but so far so good. The coating they use on these kits are unbelievably sticky, so keep that in mind when you start applying them. Once they’re down, they’re stuck for good unless you do opt to use soapy water in a spray bottle. In the end, the beauty of AMR Racing’s Graphics kits is that they’re easy to install, they have great designs, they help to protect your vehicle’s paint job if ever removed, and did we mention they look awesome? Overall, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better combination of fit and appearance than a graphics kit from AMR Racing. WARN HID LIGHTS After installing our Warn winch and front bumper, it’s time to finally install Warn’s brand new HID lights. There are a lot of lights on the market as you probably know, so choosing which type and manufacturer wasn’t easy. We could have chosen LED’s, some other type of HID’s or good old Halogens. But in the end, we chose the Warn HID’s because we believe in Warn’s quality, fit and finish in all of the products we’ve ever tested from them. To say they’re the best of the best or the ultimate light money can buy, would be lying, because we haven’t tested or ever seen a test of all the available lights on the market. But we can say that we’ve always been impressed with the quality of products we’ve tested from Warn in the past. So, let’s jump into the install. WARN HID LIGHTS INSTALLATION The first thing you have you figure out when installing lights is where you want to install them. For most, the most common location is on the roof of the UTV, so the light projects far into the distance, with little to no glare off the hood. The concern with this location is the lights being ripped off by low hanging trees. So, just be careful if you install lights in this area that you don’t go romping through the tight woods trails and forget that these high dollar lights are sitting up above your roofline. For our application, and the way the Warn lights are designed, the easiest place to mount our lights was on the forward edge of the Dirt Performance Roof. We identified where we wanted to drill our holes, and then drilled them out using a 13/32” drill bit. After drilling the holes, we applied some silicone to the base of the nut and inserted them through the roof. The nice thing about these lights is that the wiring goes through the threaded mounting post, so wiring these up is simple and clean. There’s only a positive and negative wire off the lights, and the ballasts are internal to the lights, making the install a cinch. Next, we only loosely tightened the lights so we could adjust them once everything was connected. For us, we didn’t want the wires zip tied around the roll cage, so we drilled holes and fed the wires through the cage, which proved to be the most difficult part of the install. Once the wires were fed through the cage, we installed the two switches on the dash. From there, you simply run the wires under the floorboard to the battery and connect the lights. It’s that simple and easy to do. All wires are color-coded, so it would be really hard to mess this up. Just be prepared, depending on where you install everything, that you may have to buy some additional wire and connectors to make it all fit. HID LIGHTS REVIEW Although we haven’t had a chance to test these lights on a real ride, we drove around the house to do our initial positioning of the lights, and all we can say is wow! What a huge difference these lights provide over stock. In fact, what’s funny is that you can’t even tell if you have the stock lights on or off, because the Warn HID’s overpower them completely. We’re looking forward to testing them and getting them positioned perfectly for optimal light spread and coverage. Overall, as usual, we’re impressed with the fit and finish of these Warn lights and how easy the installation is with the internal ballasts.


Author: admin on 5-06-2013, 11:43
MATTRACKS SPROSITIVE DRIVE Mattracks announces the Sprositive Drive option for ATVs and UTVs. The Sprositive Drive System has been specially designed to compensate for the miss match ratios on ATVs and UTVs using over running front differentials. By eliminating the slack in the front sprockets pitch and changing the pitch ratio in the rear, the Sprositive Drive allows your vehicle to stay locked in 4WD and helps keep all tracks pulling at the same speed. Mattracks offer Sprositive Drive options for Polaris, John Deere, Club Car, Bobcat, Case IH, New Holland and Cub Cadet UTVs, also some Polaris ATVs. Built for work or play, Mattracks currently manufactures 66 different Rubber Track Conversion Sys- tems for 4x4 ATVs, UTVs, SUVs, trucks, tractors and specialty vehicles. Mattracks LiteFoot can be utilized year round in mud, sand, snow, swamp, rough terrain or down the road. LiteFoot will get you there and back.

ATV Boot Repair

Author: admin on 5-06-2013, 10:52
A torn or ripped CV boot can be temporarily fixed with a soldering iron. Fill the torn boot back up with grease, and then clean the torn surface very well. With the boot clean, hold the tear together and weld the rubber back together with the tip of the hot soldering iron.


Author: admin on 5-05-2013, 11:41
QUADRAX 2500 WINCH A quality winch at a good price, The Quadrax 2500 winch kit comes fully equipped the remote control, a mini switch a fairlead adapter plate the roller fairlead a contactor the cable assembly and the hook. With all of these items installed on quads and side-by-sides, winching your way out of certain mishaps or task has never been as simple. With its capacity to pull up to 2500lbs (1134kg) with its 12 V 1.0hp permanent magnet motor. With its 136:1 gear ratio and cam activated clutch the Quadrax winch is a crucial item for all vehicles.


Author: admin on 5-02-2013, 11:42
CURTIS INDUSTRIES SNO-PRO FAST- CAT 550E If you’re in the snow removal business or have a business where you need to keep your parking lot ice and snow free, then the new Curtis Industries Sno-Pro Fast Cast 550E should be on your shopping list. The new electric V-box spreader is lightweight, featuring a stainless steel carriage with an aluminum hopper that won’t rust and is unaffected by continued use of salt and sand. In addition, the new Fast Cast 550E spreader features a quiet and durable 12V 1/3 HP electric motor that draws less than 20 Amps, replacing a gas engine. It also eliminates the need for a noisy vibrator motor, allowing operators to work both day and night without disturbing customers or neighbors.

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