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RZR MASK

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:48
RZR MASK ATV and UTV Dust is one of the biggest problems encountered by outdoor sports enthusiasts. People who enjoy ATVs and dirt bikes often wind up covered with grime – and they are still coughing it up several days later. If you are at all concerned about your health while riding the dusty trails, the RZR Mask is a great tool to help keep your lungs safe. The new, strong neoprene RZR Mask has N99 carbon-activated, replaceable filters that filter out 99.9 percent of all airborne particles including: dust, pollen, toxic and hazardous fumes, and odors generated by pesticides, fertilizers and farm animals. RZR Mask’s specially designed discharge valves ensure the mask will not fog eyeglasses. The mask technology is comfortable with Velcro straps, looks sporty, fits easily inside helmets, is machine washable, and is available in colors: black, blue, silver, camouflage, red and pink.

TRITON TC16

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:47
TRITON TC16 Fall of 2013, Triton Trailers began full production, offering their newest trailer the TC16 for snowmobile and ATV use. This innovative trailer has a covered area that is 7’ wide x 16’ long making for easy towing and great visibility, with extra room for transporting extra gear. The TC16 comes with all the quality components Triton is known for and a variety of accessories to tailor fit for each person’s individual use.

AMSOIL QUICKSHOT SE FUEL ADDITIVE

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:46
AMSOIL QUICKSHOT SE FUEL ADDITIVE AMSOIL INC. now offers new Quickshot SE to address common fuel issues found in small engine and powersports equipment. Degraded fuel can cause carbon build up that can lead to rough idling and poor throttle response. Fuel related problems are expected to intensify in the coming years as the ethanol content in pump gasoline continues to increase. AMSOIL Quickshot SE is a premium fuel additive formulated to clean and restore optimal performance in small engine and powersports equipment fuel systems. Its revolutionary formulation focuses on three major fuel-related issues common in small engine equipment: ethanol, water and dirty gasoline.

MOTUL MOTOWASH

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:46
MOTUL MOTOWASH Heavy duty cleaning with a showroom shine, just another great product offered by MOTUL is their MOTOWASH. The Biodegradable highly concentrated formula attacks the toughest of all kinds of mud, dirt and grime. Safe on all kinds of surfaces such as plastics, synthetic fabrics, paintwork and metals the MOTUL MOTOWASH with definitely get rid of the unwanted residues. Efficiently removes all traces of grease, dust, soil, mosquitos and other splatters. This product dries evenly leaving a nice dry anti-corrosion film giving your ATV or UTV that bright shiny look we all love.  

STI MUD TRAX

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:45
STI MUD TRAX This super-aggressive tread design features great deep, angled, grooved lugs to achieve an exceptional level of traction in those harsh wet soggy spring conditions. The tough 6-ply tire utilizes a new heavy duty rubber compound for unmatched durability, performance and treads life. The wide spaced lugs offer great traction and exceptional performance in the swamp and mud while the ‘’V’’ shaped center lug provides a surprisingly smooth ride on hard packed terrain and asphalt. Finally the aggressive shoulder lugs will help pull you through the deepest of ruts. It is safe to say that there is not a tire on the market offering a better price for the performance this tire can give.

OGIO ATV BAGS

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:42
OGIO ATV BAGS The OGIO front and rear bags are good for all seasons. They have multiple uses and allow you to pack what you need for your riding adventure. These bags have it all from water resistant zippers to an oversized bungee strap system to make sure that everything is secure. With 2500 cubic inches of storage space you will make your ride that much more organized. OGIO also has a full line bags for all uses, for a complete listing of OGIO products read about it.

Yamaha YFZR

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:20
THE CREW AT YAMAHA HAS BEEN HOSTING THE ANNUAL "GOONS IN THE DUNES" GLAMIS TRIP FOR QUITE A FEW YEARS NOW. THE "GOONS" TRIP IS USED NOT ONLY AS A PRESS LAUNCH FOR THEIR AMAZINGLY CAPABLE, SPECIAL EDITION SPORT QUADS, BUT ALSO AS A REMINDER TO ALL OF US MEDIA TYPES AS TO WHY WE STILL DO THIS. Instead of the usual hotel stay and rushed bike evaluations/photos, Yamaha invites us to Glamis to ride, camp and enjoy the whole dune experience, just like the millions of ATV enthusiasts and families do every chance they get. Luv 2 Camp had already delivered and set up a handful of their ultra-comfortable, rental Weekend Warrior travel trailers for us to stay in, and the Yamaha guys were busy mounting whips on an incredible looking stable of new Special Edition YFZR's and Raptor 700R's. Once everybody was settled in, Yamaha gave us a brief run down on the subtle differences and improvements that have been added to the special edition models. The most noticeable difference on the two machines is their appearance. Every winter Yamaha impresses us with an all new, ultra desirable SE color scheme that is sure to drive late season sales. 2013 is no different; the SE Raptor comes in Yamaha's "Ghost Black" with black plastic, black powder coated frame, new black wheels with a new lighter weight rolled lip, and very unique silver graphics. Besides the cool color scheme, Yamaha throws in their black aluminum GYTR bumper and heel guards, as well as a rear wave rotor to help keep the brakes cool. The 2011 YFZ450R SE gets a killer black and red color scheme with an almost metallic look to it. The SE 450R gets a similar looking black GYTR front bumper, black frame and new black swingarm. The SE plastic is mounted with a new updateable tool-free, Zeus style mounting system. This tool-free plastic mounting design makes maintenance and cleaning that much easier and should be employed on every sport quad made. For an added bonus, Yamaha also lets their in house accessory guys hook up a 450 and 700 with a handful of GYTR performance accessories and then brings them out for comparison as well. After countless hours of testing exhaust systems on a range of new Yamahas, the GYTR guys have made a performance based decision to partner  with FMF Exhaust for their newest line of GYTR co-branded mufflers and full system exhausts. These products will be available at any Yamaha dealer as well as online and in their GYTR Yamaha catalog. The GYTR equipped Raptor 700 had the new FMF/GYTR exhaust; a Dynojet Power Commander, tuned to run with the air box lid off and GYTR's gauze type clamp-on air filter kit. The 700 also was upgraded to the same aluminum heel guards found on the SE model, as well as aluminum GYTR nerfs and bumper. The GYTR YFZ450R benefited from a similar list of bolt on upgrades. While Yamaha is transitioning their entire exhaust line over to FMF, the YFZ450R GYTR exhaust is still produced by Dubach Racing "DR.D". The 450 also had a Power Commander tuned to match the exhaust with an open air box and GYTR Filter. Finishing touches include a flashy GYTR magnesium clutch cover and oversized "pro peg style" nerf bars with an incorporated net style heelguard. The riding/evaluations really proved to be a showcase of how well the Raptor 700R and YFZ450R work in the sand. While the 2011 SE models had some great looking upgrades from the standard models, most of the changes are purely cosmetic and we would really be experiencing the dune worthiness of the YFZ450R and Raptor 700R's as stock units. After the Yamaha guys finished up their quick tech conference, we split up into two groups for the first ride. I grabbed a YFZ450R for the first ride, and while the 2011 model only saw visual changes, it is still a race-bred ripper like years past. The 449cc five-valve race engine puts down electric-like power off the bottom to mid, with an exhilarating top end pull. The dual overhead cam engine revs quickly, and the fuel injection keeps the power crisp and always on tap. The 42mm Mikuni throttle body surely has something to do with the YFZ's screaming top end performance. The YFZR is the most capable stock machine I have ever ridden when it comes to riding the huge bowls in glamis. Its aggressive platform and stellar power curve make it a blast to rip through the big dunes, transitioning from one to the next. The stock equipped, oversized Pro Taper handlebars seem to have a very comfortable bend and the thumb throttle action is comfortable and light. The stock mx width stance and long travel suspension found on the YFZ450R is stellar in the sand dunes. Big jumps, dune transitions, and power slides are child’s play on the YFZR ATV. A good twenty minutes into our first ride, I found myself as comfortable on the stocker as I am on my race bike. The only thing that reminds you that you’re on a stock machine is a slight lack of overall HP and lack of an obnoxiously loud exhaust system. Dropping into bowls or pinning it off a decent sized jump was fun and predictable. The oversized 44mm Kayaba shocks provide ten inches of travel, and proved to be great in the dunes. Regardless of how hard I pushed the YFZR, the suspension refused to get hot and fade. We found our way through the dunes to China Wall; by far the steepest and tallest dune in glamis, and always a challenge. As all of us were riding with the stock Dunlop tires, China Wall turned out to be a very good test of skill and machine. Getting up the Wall on the stock YFZR required a knotsy run in, and precise shifts from start to finish. After barely conquering it on the third pass, it was time to give the other machines a stab at it. I saw my chance at the GYTR equipped YFZR and jumped on it. To my surprise it ripped up the Wall with ease, carrying an extra gear all the way to the crest. The extra pop of an open air box and free flowing exhaust turned out to be just what the doctor ordered when climbing the biggest, steepest dune around. As I headed back down to give the Raptor a shot, I couldn't help thinking that I really didn't want to give up the GYTR equipped machine that I was on. When you first sit on the Raptor, it exhibits a much different feel than the 450. It has a much taller and slightly narrower stance, with a very comfortable relaxed seating position. Being a monstrous 686cc single, the Raptor builds torquey, wheelie inducing power, right from the get go. The 700R climbs big soft hills with authority, after a third gear run in. It pulled the entire hill on the first pass and without a downshift. As the GYTR YFZR seat was occupied, I opted for the Raptor for the lengthy ride back to camp. Duning on the Raptor is a completely different experience than with the 450R. The ultra-plush suspension and very torquey, big bore motor requires a lot less effort to be ridden fast. When you are ripping on the YFZR, you know that you are ripping, whereas you can clip a pretty good pace on the Raptor and it feels more like you are out for a lazy Sunday drive. You could truly ride the Raptor for hours without feeling the usual fatigue or soreness associated with manhandling a four-wheeler. With that said, you might think that you can't ride the 700 aggressively, but that is not the case. The stock Raptor is a blast to jump; it could hang with the 450, even on the biggest hits. Even with how great and comfortable the Raptor is as a duner, there were a few situations where I really preferred the YFZR. With my size, any deep g out type holes or unexpected drop offs would cause the rear shock to bottom on the heavier, ultra plush Raptor. It did not exhibit any weird kicking; it just made you aware that you were using every bit of travel and then some. The other instance where the YFZR really shined in comparison was when hammering out berm shots for the camera. The low slung, MX width YFZR could be thrown into an impressive turn with little to no finesse. While the Raptor turns well for a big machine, it is definitely more difficult than the YFZR. The necessary skills to whip a berm shot on the big Raptor were very evident while watching Factory Yamaha racer Dustin Nelson execute it perfectly, over and over while I flailed with the rest of the editors. When the sun dropped, we were treated to amazing outdoor cuisine cooked for us by the Camp Chef guys who had come out to demonstrate their awesome line of outdoor cooking equipment. These guys used their propane powered outdoor stoves and ovens to cook tri-tip, au gratin potatoes, cherry cobbler, paninis, chocolate chip cookies and beef jerky. Everything they cooked was made fresh outside and was super delicious. You can check them out at www.campchef. com. Dinners were followed with horseshoe tournaments, campfires, and bench racing with good friends. This was definitely a trip I can't wait to repeat, and look forward to doing it all again next year.

Polaris ATV DIMENSIONALLY SPEAKING

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:14
Polaris ATV Suspension and power being addressed by much of the Polaris engineering team, the remainder of the RZR XP design minds turned their attention to other components that would further help put the driver in-tune with the terrain. First and foremost is a new steering rack that delivers 22-percent quicker steering than the previous design, which means you’ll spend less time sawing on the wheel and with less effort. While the new performance XP isn’t equipped with power steering (yet), the new steering system is a dramatic improvement, delivering desired results through more finite inputs. The other major driver input; braking, was also improved with new dual piston calipers up front and single bore units out back. The results are a claimed 55- percent reduction in braking effort. And while the pedal effort was dramatically reduced, the overall “feel” was too vague for our tastes, especially considering the XP’s ability to charge into corners and terrain with greater speed. While the overall stature of the RZR XP looks much larger than any previous RZR, the tale of the tape tells us the new buggy is only 4 inches wider than a RZRS, with a wheelbase just 4.5-inches longer. Unfortunately, while the chassis and wheelbase has grown, the same cab is used as all other RZR models, making for a cramped cockpit for larger framed drivers and passengers, especially in the area of foot controls, as well as elbow and forearm range of movement. SPOOKY FAST From almost the minute your strap yourself into the XP and ignite the new Prostar engine, you realize this is more than just another RZR. The exhaust note is more assured, and after encountering the first hints of terrain, the suspension is not just capable but authoritative, with take-charge trail manners. While Polaris boasts of much improved acceleration, (a claimed 29-percent faster than the closest competitor) it’s not so much the XP’s ability to gain speed quickly that impresses, but rather its ability to stay there. In terrain that previously would have most other sport UTVs beyond nervous and almost assuredly out of control, the RZR XP drives headlong into 3-foot, non-rhyth- mic whoops with controlled reckless abandon. The suspensions capabilities, coupled with dramatically more power, allows acceleration to play a greater role in terrain navigation; getting the front-end “light” when necessary, thereby skipping over off-camber sections and square edged rocks. Calibrations were very good for the large amplitude, low frequency bumps that littered the Arizona trails we rallied for the day. In fact, the larger the holes, the better the XP performed. However, we were met with a tradeoff in braking bumps, stutters, and washboard trail sections that would transmit directly into the chassis with teeth loosening results. Of course, we suspect this can be remedied through altered pre-load and compression settings. Unfortunately, the Podium X shocks only offer compression damping setting, and not rebound; an area where we would have liked to have seen quicker settings to avoid “packing-up” when slamming into multiple holes in quick succession. The wider stance and quicker steering ratio made for what we felt is the best handling stock UTV we have experienced to date, despite those rare occurrences where rear axle scrub forced the XP to “step-out” on whooped corner apexes. With the copilot gasping for air beneath his helmet, and a fingernail tweaking grip on the passenger T-bar, the XP keeps the driver at ease while negotiating twisted trail sections at what can be described as nothing short of spooky fast. The MAN With the most expansive line-up of offroad offerings in the industry, it was already apparent Polaris was leading the industry, not just in terms of market share in the UTV segment, but more so in regards to technology, performance, and the all important metric of swagger. In less than 10 years, Polaris has entered the performance side-by-side arena and has one-upped existing competitors, created new market segments, and now has just dropped what could be likened to an atomic bomb onto the playing field. While it may sound cliche, the RZR XP not only raises the bar, but in some respects exceeds it. While rumors are already running rampant of coming soon competitive vehicles, and Arctic Cat going so far as to peek-aboo a concept over-the-top performance UTV during their winter dealer meeting; the Polaris RZR XP is a reality now - taking names and delivering a level of performance that doesn’t just tame terrain, but eliminates it. Two springs with a “crossover” collar make-up the dual spring rate at the rear. In addition to the benefits of a dual rate spring design, the use of two separate springs will allow adept suspension gurus to tune just one spring or the crossover shim for more finite suspension control.  With 13.5 inches of front wheel travel, the FOX Podium X 2.0 shocks are long; reaching high into the new tubular chassis.  Hand model Rich shows off the new over-sized air filter that allows the new Prostar engine to breathe deep.

Polaris RZR XP 900

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:11
Polaris RZR XP 900 BEAMING, BRIGHT WHITE HEADLAMPS AND A HARMONIZING STACCATO OF FOUR-STROKE RUMBLE SERVED AS BOTH A RECEPTION AND A PROCLAMATION FROM POLARIS AS WE EXITED OUR AIR-CONDITIONED BUS INTO THE ARIZONA DESERT. NEWS OF A BIGGER, FASTER, AND MORE COMPETENT RZR HAD BEEN RUMORED FOR SOME TIME, AND GREW MORE INTENSIFIED AFTER CAN-AN UNVEILED THEIR LONG ANTICIPATED BIG BORE COMMANDER, OFFICIALLY MARKING THEIR ENTRANCE INTO THE SIDE-BY-SIDE ARENA. Yetdespite those expectations, few if any were prepared for the “bigger hammer” Polaris that was about to drop. Even our competitive publishing counterparts who spend much of their time on the west coast of the United States, close to the dune and desert off-road scene, were unprepared for the “next-big-thing” RZR.  Certainly Polaris had already secured ownership in the sport side-byside market by first one-upping the first to market Yamaha Rhino with the original 50-inch wide RZR. However, unlike other competitors, Polaris wasted little time knocking down subsequent barriers and gobbling up market share with a steady progression of performance and capabilities with the RZR-S and RZR-4. With those moves, Polaris quickly found itself atop the UTV market. But like many rulers, leading is often never enough, and dreams of conquest followed. Enter the conqueror; the all-new Ranger RZR XP 900. From its wide 64-inch stance and whopping 13-inches of ground clearance, to its flared fenders and monstrous Fox Podium X shocks, the RZR XP makes a clear and defined statement of bigger and expectedly better. To the untrained eye, the RZR XP looks very similar in many ways to last year’s restyled RZR. In fact, the plastic, save the oversized fender flares, along with interior decor is identical to other RZR models; but that’s where the similarities end.  Perhaps ripping a page from the Shuar tribes of South America, best know for their tribal custom of head hunting and head shrinking, Polaris engineers determined their vehicle of conquest would need to incorporate off-road suspension technology from the most adept off-road vehicles in the world – trophy trucks. With suspension travel rated at 14-inches at the rear and 13.5-inches at the front, the RZR XP touts a suspension stroke that bests nearly every aftermarket suspension currently on the market, let alone stock OEM competitors.  TROPHY TRAVEL To gain such numbers of suspension capability, the RZR XP employs a threepoint rear suspension that in many ways mirrors a trophy truck, right down the over-sized FOX Podium X 2.0 shocks. It’s the rear suspension that almost immediately catches your eye, thanks to a long and extremely beefy trailing arm that attaches to the chassis just behind the cab and extends to the rear wheel. Two adjoining radius rod control arms perside, keep the position of the rear axle in place as it strokes a full 14-inches of vertical movement.  The new trailing arm rear suspension features a long and very stout “trailing” link that affixes itself to the new chassis beneath the cab. You can see the shock mounting tab located mid-way back on the arm.  It’s the long, oversized trailing arm that allows the system to deliver huge travel numbers, while at the same time having the strength to withstand terrain of even greater vertical breadth. In a more traditional upper and lower control arm system, such as the one used on the RZR-S, terrain forces experienced by the control arms, as well as the central mounting location, attempt to twist and exert force on the suspension in a horizontal fashion. The control arms and mounting location must be strong enough to redirect these forces into vertical travel. In order to do so, the system first needs to be incredibly strong and subsequently heavier. In addition, travel numbers are limited due to packaging, design, and the horizontal forces experienced. The three-point “trophy-truck” design used on the RZR XP allows for more travel, and at the same time, ease of packaging. The massive FOX Podium shocks found here would never fit within the confines of the RZR-S rear suspension. There are trade-offs of course. While handling attributes associated with camber can be design altered for desired cornering results, the large travel numbers also creates greater amounts of wheel scrub, a trade-off Polaris engineers claim is worth the handling benefits the RZR XP exudes; more on this later. To the front, a more traditional, dual Aarm design resides, albeit a very tall one. With another pair of remote reservoir Podium X shocks found here, with the same pre-load and compression damping adjustments, travel is just south of 14 at 13.5-inches (34.3cm). Those travel numbers coupled to 27x12 ITP tires standing at a full 64-inches (162.6cm) wide, and you have 13-inches (33cm) of ground clearance, giving the RZR XP the ability to drive over more terrain that others simply can’t.  The front of the new RZR XP touts a broad spoiler which is said to not only improve aerodynamics, but also eliminates dead air pockets within the wheel well, thereby improving shock cooling as well. The new engine was purposely positioned with a forward exiting exhaust so its length and routing could be tuned for optimum power. The stainless-steel, two into one plumbing dumps into an oversized, rear mount silencer that keeps the note hushed but leaves enough meat on the bone to alert would be rivals that there’s juice lurking within. We were greeted by a red RZR XP walkway upon arriving to our ride destination in Arizona this past January.  The new Prostar engine and accompanying RZR XP transmission are adjoined by a spider casting, and mounted into the new tube chassis as a single unit, thereby keeping the center to center CVT distance constant for improved performance and belt life.  You can easily see the wider and taller stance of the RZR XP when compared to its now smaller sibling RZR-S.  PODIUM POWER Phase two of project shrunken trophy truck was undoubtedly more power. It was widely known the current motor found in the RZR-S and RZR-4, while certainly competent, was also nearing the limits of its performance capabilities. Even the aftermarket world was admittedly, overextending the limits of the 760cc twin with big bore, high flow engine kits or turbo-charged performance boost; many which produced peak power numbers still south of the all-new Prostar 900. According to Polaris, the new RZR XP mill was designed and built specifically for a performance side-by-side application, although we suspect we’ll soon find this motor in other Ranger applications in the very near future. The dual overhead cam engine features 180-degree crankcase architecture, and when joined by a front, side mounted counter-balancer; it produces remarkably smooth power for a big bore twin. All the expected performance goodies are found on the new Prostar engine, including high flow head porting, optimized intake and exhaust flows, and an overall simplification in design. The fuel injection system draws its oxygen charge through large 46-millimeter throttle bodies, which suck vapors through a new high volume air box, and oversized airfilter that according to Polaris, provides 90- percent more surface area over their previous design. The result is more air –charge at the ready when the accelerator is mashed, and less filter maintenance, especially in highdust and dirt conditions. With more flow coming in, engineers had to ensure more flow was also going out. For that reason, the new motor is mounted within the RZR XP chassis with a forward exiting exhaust. This gave powertrain engineers the space and exhaust pipe length to tune the exhaust flow for optimum performance. Visually, the Prostar engine sits tall, with a large dry-sump lower case and excessive head and valve train areas. Despite these visual cues, the engine is a ripper; pumping out a claimed 88-ponies at peak rpm. Polaris is also quick to point out that the new engine delivers a dynamic 100-ponies per liter of displacement, which in layman’s terms means the engine is both efficient, and based upon our oneday rally, has plenty more power lurking, waiting to be uncorked by some simple aftermarket modifications. Joining the new Prostar power is an allnew transmission that features no “rightangled” transfer of power. All gears in the new tranny rotate in the same direction, again for efficient power transfer. And the tranny is fed the goods from the Prostar 900 by updated drive and driven clutching that is borrowed directly from the Polaris snowmobile division, which is well versed in capturing power in excess of 150- ponies through CVT technology.  With full CVT shift coming at 8750rpms, the new Prostar spins at nearly 2,000 revolutions more than the RZR 800. Even with these additional revs, we think there is way more power to be “uncorked” from the Prostar, and Polaris could very well be holding the new twin back for year-one. Full size primary and secondary clutching components were borrowed directly from the well-versed Polaris snowmobile department. Out of box calibrations are excellent.  Accessories for the new 900 are plentiful and hit dealerships in unison with the first delivery of RZR XP side-by-sides. From skid plates and bumpers, to LED light bars and high-performance stereo systems, the PURE division of Polaris has been hard at work as well, in preparation for the launch of the 900 XP. The rear cargo box of the RZR XP has some new shapes associated with it, allowing for easy access to the air filter as well as this engine oil compartment. Details weren’t left out with the new performance XP. Included in the tool kit is this handy oil catch that keeps oil off the engine while changing the filter and its associated spooge of crude.

ATV Tire Mounting Made Easy

Author: admin on 5-07-2013, 11:03
ATV TIRES are a consumable product, regardless of what type of ATV you own. If you ride it, they will wear out eventually. Acquiring a new set is as easy as a phone call to one of the many mail-order vendors, or a trip to the local shop. After spending your hard earned dollars for a new set of meats, do you really want to shell out 15-20 bucks a piece to have them mounted? This expense can be easily avoided with nothing more than a set of tire irons and an air supply. A pair of tire irons can be purchased for about the same price as having a single tire mounted. Check out or new Tips and Tricks section for an easy, tool free beadbraking method. FIRST DETERMINE WHICH SIDE OF THE RIM HAS THE SMALLER BELL. This side of the rim will be the smallest and the tire will stretch over it much easier. Inspect the new tire for any arrows printed or molded into the side, as these are directional arrows and they are only present on tires that are directional. If the tires are directional, ensure that the tires are going the right direction with the valve stem on the outside. If the tires are directional, you will have a right and a left. If the tires are not directional, you can mount them either way. Before starting, lay out all the tires you will be mounting, with the rims going the right way, to ensure you don’t mess up. MIX UP A SOLUTION OF SOAPY WATER FOR TIRE MOUNTING LUBE. Dish soap and water at 10-20% will work great. Lube both tire beads with a squirt bottle or a rag. The lube will not only ease the rim installation greatly, but will also help the tire bead to pop into place when airing up the tire. There are many different lubes that will work, but plain soap and water will dry cleanly without a greasy residue. WITH THE TIRE ON THE GROUND, PUSH AS MUCH OF THE WHEEL AS YOU CAN INTO THE TIRE BY HAND, BEING SURE TO USE THE SMALL BELL SIDE. The first side of the wheel can sometimes be pushed all the way in by hand. If not, take a tire iron (using the scoop side) to grab the inside of the tire bead and lever backwards against the wheel. This motion will both lift the bead of the tire over the lip of the wheel and also push the wheel down into the tire with the other side of the tire iron. Hold the tire iron at a slight angle away from the wheel. Start right next to the point where the wheel would not go in by hand. Repeat this levering motion, taking small bites all the way around the tire until you have one side mounted. If done properly, this should take very little pressure and probably less than a minute. FLIP THE TIRE OVER SO THAT THE WHEEL IS ON THE GROUND. PUSH ONE SIDE OF THE TIRE DOWN BELOW THE BELL OF THE WHEEL AND USE YOUR KNEE OR FOOT TO KEEP IT THERE. With the tire pushed below the bell, take your tire iron, slip it under the tire, and hook the wheel. Pry away from you, rolling a small amount of the tire over the rim lip with each bite. Slowly work your way around the wheel, taking small bites until completed. The key to this step is keeping the tire below the bell with your knees and to keep applying the pressure a little farther around the wheel as you take each bite with your tire iron. Following the tire around with your knees will keep it from slipping back off the opposite side of where you are working. To ease the levering, use a little extra pressure on the knee that is directly opposite of where you are working with the tire iron. NOW THAT YOUR A TIRE CHANGING CHAMP. IT IS TIME TO SEAT THE BEAD. You need to remove the valve core so that a greater volume of air can enter the tire faster. In a pinch, with the core out you can shove the end of the air hose directly onto the valve stem without an air chuck, and the tire will inflate. What we recommend is to buy a cheap clip on air chuck, take it apart and remove the pin that holds the schrader valve open, and then reassemble it. Clip this tool onto the valve stem, attach the hose and the tire should inflate immediately. If too much air is leaking around the beads, hit the tire with your hands at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, keeping pressure against the tire until it starts to take air. Once it takes air, it will eventually seat the bead. The clip on air chuck can be used as a safety device. Once the tire is taking air, you can back away and wait safely for the bead to pop. Once the bead is seated, you can either shut a valve to the hose or unplug it, keeping yourself clear of any possible danger. Finish by replacing the valve core and setting the pressure.  That bead that just wont seat!  Occasionally the tire will have too large of a gap between the bead and the rim, leaking the air out too fast to allow it to fill. This is often the case when your tires have been shipped to you banded together to save space. First off, if your tires are shipped to you banded, cut the bands off as soon as they arrive to get the tire to start getting back to its original shape. If the gap is still really big and hitting the tire at 10 and 2 doesn't work, you can try tightening a ratcheting tie down around the center circumference of the tire, imploding the tire and forcing the beads out. If this does not work, try the following method: Start with a used front 21 inch motorcycle inner tube, and cut the tube on both sides of the valve stem so that you can toss it and be left with a long strip, instead of a round tube. Wrap the tube around the wheel on the inside of the lip so that it takes up the space where the air was leaking. Now fill the tire; it should press against the rubber strip and the tire will bead up on the other side. Once you have one side beaded up, release the pressure and remove the inner tube. With one side beaded you can apply air and push the wheel into the tire, and it should now seat no problem. We have also seen this performed with a wet towel, but be sure to not end up with a wheel full of water.

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